|
Webster’s
Dictionary describes the word “jump” like this. Jump: to spring into
the air, to spring free from the ground or other base by the muscular action of feet and legs.
Even though Webster did describe jumping without a motorcycle underneath, some of the
descriptions do apply. Muscular action of feet and legs certainly pertains to jumping a motorcycle, and also “spring”
was mentioned, we’ll just use it a bit different and think of the fork and shock springs.
But first we will back up a bit and start with “approach
speed”, which is just like it sounds, the speed you approach the obstacle at. If it takes 30 miles per hour approach
speed to land the proper distance on the landing ramp, 25 mph will land you short, and 35 mph will take you long. You must
also factor in with approach speed how must weight you will push into the pegs, or take off of the pegs at the transition
from flat ground to the angled take off ramp. This will come from practice , experience and thus the “feel” to
properly judge distances of different jumps. This approach speed usually begins from the exit of a corner or another obstacle.
I recommend working on getting your speed up as early as possible so you won’t be late on the take off ramp. If you
have extra speed at the ramp, you can scrub speed with body and brakes, and chop the throttle if needed, but always charge,
don’t coast up to the obstacles.
Line selection will be important on jumps
due to hazards on the face of some jumps, i.e.: kickers, rocks, slick surfaces and ruts need to be addressed to make the jump
as safe as possible. Also setting up the next section is also important, you don’t have to always take off and land
right in the middle of every jump. Just think of the jump as a straight with an obstacle in it, make you line selections accordingly.
If there is a kicker, don’t let off the throttle when going through the bump, blip or throttle through to keep the “load’
back on the rear wheel. Letting off here will mean weight transfer to the front wheel and a possible endo.
The next thing is a choice of two different techniques, preloading and rebounding (getting height), or minimizing (staying
low). If you have a jump that is long enough that it can’t be easily cleared
by approach speed alone, you must gain distance by gaining some height. This is achieved by a simple 3 step process. First
as you approach the jump ramp, stand up tall over the bike, and before you start to move up the ramp, push your body weight
into the footpegs, like on a trampoline or pogo stick. Then as you travel up the ramp, start to stand back up and forward
to allow the suspension to come back up or rebound. And finally right as you leave the ramp, bend your knees up to let the
bike rebound underneath you which will allow the suspension to “top out” and give you maximum height.
To stay low off of a jump that you can easily clear, you will do about the opposite
of what was just described to gain height. As you approach the ramp, stay loose in the elbows and knees so when you start
to travel up the ramp, the bike will be allowed to “come up under you” so as to not put weight on the pegs. Your
timing should be consistent with the length of the take off ramp, quicker movements or absorption for short ramps, and more
subtle, slower movements for longer ramps. You should be at the seat with your crotch right at the top of the take off, to
help “knock down” the bike so it doesn’t rebound up. You will look kind of “frog like’ as you
do this technique. Just concentrate on being soft as you go through the ramp. Once you get your timing down, then you can
start to lean the bike over up the ramp to “whip’ the bike, or turn your front wheel to the right or left side
to deflect some of the inertia to the side to help stay lower. Lower means faster approach speeds and will allow you to get
the wheels back on the ground sooner.
Other things to consider are spotting you landings, especially on the larger jumps
as you take you runs up to them, you must visualize where the landings are. Also throttle control which will have a direct
influence on to attitude of the bike in the air, weather the front wheel is high or low, and proper body position to keep
balanced in the air. Make sure you are in the proper gear. If you jump in to low of a gear, the front wheel will tend to drop
as you take off. Try one gear higher so you can “float’ over the jump. More distance can also be gained from proper
gear selection.
Jumping makes allot of people nervous because a mistake can be costly, but if you are
tense or nervous, you body will be stiff and tight off the jump, and this is the worst thing you can do. You will not be in
sync with the bikes suspension, and the bike will become twitchy, and the more scared you are, the worse you will jump. So
think of the jump as fun instead of how dangerous it is. Learn to commit, remember, indecision killed the cat! Your motorcycle
was designed to jump, it only does what you put into it, so if you are having a problem, evaluate what you are doing and think
about the fundamentals which will allow you to make to corrections. So have fun and be safe, and don’t take jumps for
granted!
|
